The Everlasting 'New Look'

When a vintage loving gal from the 21st Century looks at Utility clothing from the 1940s we think it looks feminine, well made, and damn right swell, however, after years of austerity from rationing, women in Europe during the late 1940s were deserving of a bit more glamour and extravagance than the sharp shouldered suit jackets and 30s inspired skirts that they had gotten used to. In 1946, they certainly got that. Dior's New Look was born in Paris; after years of occupation the fashion capital had understandably lost it's shine and had something to prove to the rest of the fashion industry. The arrival of the 'bar-suit silhouette' was a major change from the look that woman had had to put up with due to the lack of material available during the war. With this look Dior was accentuating the natural shape of the female body and creating a sumptuous and sexy silhouette.The below mid-calf length skirt was teamed with a small waisted jacket accentuating the bust, and minimising the waist. Dior famously used 20 yards of fabric in his designs, which certainly must have seemed like an extravagance! Dior had hit on exactly the right element of change that women craved after the war. Many women had spent the last six years in overalls doing 'man's work' and were ready for a complete overhaul almost going back to the flowing fabrics and feminity of the early 1900s.
The designs that made up the collection influenced designers for years afterwards and I believe are some of the most beautiful, enduring and important pieces to enter the world of fashion.

Featured pictures: 1940s Utility Suit and Ration Coupon Booklets
Dior Bar-Suit and original design drawing
Available now on e-bay: 1950s sewing pattern
Dita in Dior